Waves, Currents, and Sediment Transport in the Surf Zone Along Long, Straight Beaches

Download or read book Waves, Currents, and Sediment Transport in the Surf Zone Along Long, Straight Beaches written by Yoshimitsu Tajima and published by . This book was released on 2004 with total page 313 pages. Available in PDF, EPUB and Kindle. Book excerpt: (Cont.) Introducing the predicted near-shore hydrodynamic characteristics, we extend the conceptual bedload and associated suspended load sediment transport models (Mad- sen, 2001) to the surf zone. The extended sediment transport model accounts for breaking wave effects such as an increase of turbulence due to broken waves and change of the momentum force balances due to breaking waves and surface rollers. The model predicted the peaks of longshore sediment transport observed near the shore line and the wave breaking point for plunging breakers.